Cheung Fun, Rice Roll, Pure Unadulterated Heaven - whatever you call it, the iconic rolls of soft rice noodle filled with shrimp/pork/egg/anything and everything, which is then ceremoniously doused in soy sauce, has spread like wildfire through New York in the past few years - with contemporary locales dishing it out on all sides of town. For the unseasoned, picture dumplings deconstructed into sheets of delicate noodle and filling, before being rolled and submerged in sauce and toppings. For the best in Manhattan head to Yi Ji Shi Mo on Elizabeth Street. Stepping down into this basement is a magical experience of incredible how-its-made-esque visuals with sheets of fresh rice noodle being cooked and rolled right before your eyes in the bare bones space. The menu can be overwhelming, but just dive in and throw in any combination of barbecued pork, egg, chive, and dried shrimp, and you will be A-ok. Sometimes the waits can be lengthy, but I find it flies by as I consistently become mesmerized by the chef’s process in the back. The noodle is remarkably thing, airy, and flavorful when compared to the sometimes mushy and bland varieties around town - a difference so noticeable its like a French baguette versus wonder bread. The fillings are nothing short of unbelievable, and this hot combination of soft textures, stabilizing crunches, savory meats, and acidic soy sauce is simply put, religious.
Yi Ji Shi Mo
88 Elizabeth Street
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