Mexico City is without a doubt one of the greatest cities on the planet. Careening boulevards lined with futuristic skyscrapers are paired with endless neighborhoods so drowned in native trees that a day on the town feels like a journey through the jungle - the variety of experiences to be had, seen, and tasted here are unfathomable. The entire city is dominated and addicted to design, serving as a beacon for the world of its unique, authentic, and colorful style identity that’s constructed through the combination of Aztec influence, prior Spanish colonialism, and an unforgiving push to the cutting edge that really can only be compared to cities in Scandinavia. You legitimately can feel this crazy mix of culture in everything you do and see - working together to create its own sense of a contemporary, cosmopolitan Mexican cultural identity. There are more people living here than in New York, LA, Paris, or London, yet the city never really feels overwhelming because of its distinct neighborhood identities which make it feel more like a chain of connected locales rather than the megalopolis that it is. Every neighborhood is so strikingly different, with identity-building not only relegated to vibes like in most cities, but screamed through shockingly diverging styles of architecture, urban grid and layout, and varieties of cuisine. On one block you’re in Mexican Manhattan, and one block away you’re in a tropical art colony, and another you’re in Paris. From nabes with local food that make you believe in god, to gorgeous locales that make Beverly Hills look like a shanty town and Brooklyn look sterile, to some of the best art museums in the world and utterly insane nightlife, Mexico City truly has the elements that make visiting cities great - but taken to a new level you’ve never seen. Mexico City has some of the highest-end dining I’ve ever experienced, yet it’s one of the world’s great food cities not for its white-tableclothed establishments. Street food is so central to the still evolving story of this city that you should simply be arrested if you go for anything aside the mom and pop establishments on every corner. Every type of taco served has a story rooted in the city’s history and struggle for economic survival, freedom, and happiness, that going on a tour and talking with the taqueros serves as a literal history lesson - and one that has irreversibly ruined American tacos for me.
Food
El Huequito - The Best Al Pastor you’ve ever had in your life. Juicy, flavorful as hell meat with a shine and crisp that can only be described as arousing get slapped in a moist tortilla. Pineapple is traded for mountains of sautéed onions. Go to the original in Central. Pictured at top.
El Hidalguense - Come on weekends to try real deal barbacoa. We’re not talking that shit Chipotle drowns in queso, this is the real deal with a goat being prepared for days by someone’s mother before hitting your table with gorgeous tortillas and accoutrements. A total staple of CDMX family culture, you have to try this.
Los Cocuyos - One word, campechano. Don’t ask just order, and you’ll get a crispy mixture of flavorful meats including brisket, chorizo, and more. Dress it how you please and die happy.
El Turix - My love affair with cochinita pibil - a Mexican slow roasted pork - goes way back, but eating it here gave me the same feeling I had when eating a croissant in Paris the whole time. How is this possible you may wonder, just how do they do this? The stress will leave your head as your mind is fully consumed by the buttery, tenderness of the meat and pickled onions.
Fonda Margarita - Fonda’s are everywhere in Mexico City - basically their version of New York’s diners, but instead of eggs and bacon you get chilaquiles - soft tortilla chips, eggs, cheese and salsa - that are simply divine. Pair that with chicharonnes, tortillas that you line with their homemade soft bean/egg mixture, and some truly mean coffee and there’s no way you’re having a bad day.
El Cardenal - Historic and high end breakfast and lunch spot in Central Mexico blocks from Zocalo, go for the incredible Conchas - a sweet roll covered in sugar that looks like a shell - and hot chocolate, but don’t you dare leave without ordering the enchiladas.
Pujol - Enrique Olvera’s CDMX icon set in a gorgeous and minimalist space only comparable to the house from Parasite. You have to make reservations nearly 6 months ahead usually, but the wait is worth it to try this world renowned Michelin-star spot that is anything but stuffy. Olvera elevates traditional Mexican food with things like a taco omakase and a mole that has been aging since the restaurant opened. Mexican food beautifully and magically meets Alinea.
Places to Explore
Condesa/Roma - These incredibly hip and artistic neighborhoods are constantly explained as being Brooklyn because of their hip culture and edge food scenes, or Paris because of their incredible Beaux-Arts architecture. They are in reality their own animal completely - just so authentically themselves - and necessitate days to properly do and explore.
Polanco - Ritzy, bougie, gorgeous. Picture contemporary art and design meets Madison Avenue. Great for shopping, going out, and seeing how CDMX elite get to live.
Coyoacan - Art colony to the south made famous by Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera that feels like a world of its own. Check out the gorgeous architecture around the town square.
Xochimilco - Ancient Aztec canals filled with colorful boats that you can rent with friends to drink mezcal and explore the tropical area previously home to area agriculture. A relic of the old Aztec City in the middle of a lake that was paved over for Mexico City, these canals have an eerie, spiritual presence.
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